In the Gender, Sexuality, Feminist, and Social Justice Studies (GSFS) 401 Winter 2020 semester class on Food, Gender, and Environment taught by Dr. Alex Ketchum, students are analyzing the ways that food accessibility and environmental threats are gendered, sexualized, and racialized within the global context. As part of the course, students visited McGill’s archives and special collections to have a hands on experience with historical cookbooks (more on that here: http://www.historicalcookingproject.com/2020/02/field-trip-to-mcgill-rare-books-and.html). The Special Series of Student Posts is a collection of student reflections on what information we can glean from cookbooks.
Cookbooks - both handwritten and print - are extraordinary primary sources that allow us to examine past traditions of food, culture, and history. Cookbooks not only document culinary instructions and guidance but provide insight into practices of tradition, community, and culture (Daniels et al, 2012). The assemblage of recipes combined with photographic documentation and descriptions allow cookbooks to transcend boundaries and act as critical works tackling topics such as race, politics, and religion.
As a self-proclaimed lover of all things food and cooking related, I have an extensive and ever-growing collection of cookbooks. Whether I’m preparing for a large feast or simply passing the time on a Sunday afternoon - you can often find me perched on the sofa with a cup of tea and a cookbook in hand. I adore works by old and new chefs alike; my collection ranges from Julia Child to Massimo Bottura, Anthony Bourdain, and Samin Nosrat. But, my most beloved, well-worn, and cherished cookbook of all is a collection of recipes created by my grandmother, June (commonly referred to as ‘Bran’ by her grandchildren).
While my family is not religious, this cookbook is our bible. It’s a compilation of sacred recipes that have shaped our family and will be passed on for generations. The inspiration of this book comes from an almost 40-year tradition. Since the birth of my eldest cousin, my family has engaged in the tradition and ritual of ‘Sunday Dinner’. For a few hours at the end of each week, my extensive family gathers at my grandparents’ house in Kingston, Ontario to share food, stories, and laughter. This ritual of sharing a meal acts as a conduit to conversation, connection, and nostalgia.
My grandmother is the matriarch of the family; she brings us together, guides us through difficult times, and is always the first to initiate celebration. She’s exceptionally well-read, witty, and clever, but most of all, she’s modest. Her modesty can not only be seen in everyday life, but through her cooking. She’s somehow been able to prepare and provide an extensive feast for 12 people every Sunday for the past 40 years, and is currently approaching her 90th birthday. Her ability to whip together a roast, Yorkshire pudding, pavlova, or boeuf bourguignon is truly inspiring.
It wasn’t until about ten years ago when it dawned on us that she had never recorded any of these marvelous creations. How were we supposed to keep this incredibly meaningful tradition alive if we didn’t have a compilation of her recipes? This realization occurred around the same time that my eldest cousin Kate was heading off to university at McGill. Kate wanted a small collection of a few Sunday dinner recipes in my grandmothers handwriting to take with her. In true Bran fashion, she took it upon herself to create an entire book of handwritten recipes cards. She not only documented almost every single recipe we had shared and enjoyed as a family over the years, but produced copies of the book for the entire family. A copy of ‘The Cookbook’ can now be found on every family members’ kitchen shelf.
This handwritten book was created as a collection of recipes, but acts as a compilation of memories, laughter, tradition, and love. We are all eternally grateful for this book, and cherish it deeply.
*Upon completing this blog post, I reached out to several family members to learn more about the books significance. I’ve included their responses below. *
“The book has new meaning now that my kids exist and (especially Cedric at almost 4 years old) know Bran. Cedric’s favourite from visits to the cottage are her thin, crispy oatmeal cookies. It was so special to be able to pull the book off the shelf and make them for him last weekend. As an added bonus, he loves looking at the cover photo!” - Kate MacDonald, June’s eldest grandchild
“Traditions make memories. All my life my parents have lived in the same house and had the ritual of hosting Sunday dinners. These affairs are steeped in tradition, generosity, family, love, good conversation, and of course… food. What is most special about Sunday dinners is the time, effort and joy my mother puts into the preparation of the meal. There are family favourites and new recipes that Mom often tests. But above all, the love that Mom puts into her cooking and serving is what makes this tradition so special. The cookbook evolved when Mom decided to write out all the Sunday dinner favourites. She hand wrote each recipe and then made copies for all her children and grandchildren.
We treasure the book but most of all we treasure the value of our Sunday dinners together. As time goes by, the tradition of making these recipes will continue for generations to come. I’m pretty sure that nothing more will warm my mother’s heart.” – Martha Thomson, June’s youngest daughter
“My sister’s cookbook is incredibly special – I have a copy and so do both of my daughters. Whenever I think of the cookbook I think of a very special moment a few years ago. It was my eldest daughter’s wedding. When my sister arrived my youngest grandson (who was 5 at the time and had grown up with June’s cookbook) ran across the room and gave her an enormous hug. Jackson’s face lit up and he squealed in excitement when he finally met “the lady on the book.” The cookbook is a staple in our all of our homes.” – Joan Yates, June’s younger sister
Works Cited
Daniels, Sarah et al. “More than Preparing a Meal? Concerning the Meanings of Home
Cooking.” Appetite, vol. 58, no. 3, 2012, pp. 1050–1056.,
doi:10.1016/j.appet.2012.02.040
Sunday Dinners at 95 Hill
by Emily Thomson
Cookbooks - both handwritten and print - are extraordinary primary sources that allow us to examine past traditions of food, culture, and history. Cookbooks not only document culinary instructions and guidance but provide insight into practices of tradition, community, and culture (Daniels et al, 2012). The assemblage of recipes combined with photographic documentation and descriptions allow cookbooks to transcend boundaries and act as critical works tackling topics such as race, politics, and religion.
As a self-proclaimed lover of all things food and cooking related, I have an extensive and ever-growing collection of cookbooks. Whether I’m preparing for a large feast or simply passing the time on a Sunday afternoon - you can often find me perched on the sofa with a cup of tea and a cookbook in hand. I adore works by old and new chefs alike; my collection ranges from Julia Child to Massimo Bottura, Anthony Bourdain, and Samin Nosrat. But, my most beloved, well-worn, and cherished cookbook of all is a collection of recipes created by my grandmother, June (commonly referred to as ‘Bran’ by her grandchildren).
 |
| Cover of ‘The Cookbook’, featuring my grandmother, June |
While my family is not religious, this cookbook is our bible. It’s a compilation of sacred recipes that have shaped our family and will be passed on for generations. The inspiration of this book comes from an almost 40-year tradition. Since the birth of my eldest cousin, my family has engaged in the tradition and ritual of ‘Sunday Dinner’. For a few hours at the end of each week, my extensive family gathers at my grandparents’ house in Kingston, Ontario to share food, stories, and laughter. This ritual of sharing a meal acts as a conduit to conversation, connection, and nostalgia.
My grandmother is the matriarch of the family; she brings us together, guides us through difficult times, and is always the first to initiate celebration. She’s exceptionally well-read, witty, and clever, but most of all, she’s modest. Her modesty can not only be seen in everyday life, but through her cooking. She’s somehow been able to prepare and provide an extensive feast for 12 people every Sunday for the past 40 years, and is currently approaching her 90th birthday. Her ability to whip together a roast, Yorkshire pudding, pavlova, or boeuf bourguignon is truly inspiring.
 |
| The first page of The Cookbook |
It wasn’t until about ten years ago when it dawned on us that she had never recorded any of these marvelous creations. How were we supposed to keep this incredibly meaningful tradition alive if we didn’t have a compilation of her recipes? This realization occurred around the same time that my eldest cousin Kate was heading off to university at McGill. Kate wanted a small collection of a few Sunday dinner recipes in my grandmothers handwriting to take with her. In true Bran fashion, she took it upon herself to create an entire book of handwritten recipes cards. She not only documented almost every single recipe we had shared and enjoyed as a family over the years, but produced copies of the book for the entire family. A copy of ‘The Cookbook’ can now be found on every family members’ kitchen shelf.
This handwritten book was created as a collection of recipes, but acts as a compilation of memories, laughter, tradition, and love. We are all eternally grateful for this book, and cherish it deeply.
*Upon completing this blog post, I reached out to several family members to learn more about the books significance. I’ve included their responses below. *
“The book has new meaning now that my kids exist and (especially Cedric at almost 4 years old) know Bran. Cedric’s favourite from visits to the cottage are her thin, crispy oatmeal cookies. It was so special to be able to pull the book off the shelf and make them for him last weekend. As an added bonus, he loves looking at the cover photo!” - Kate MacDonald, June’s eldest grandchild
“Traditions make memories. All my life my parents have lived in the same house and had the ritual of hosting Sunday dinners. These affairs are steeped in tradition, generosity, family, love, good conversation, and of course… food. What is most special about Sunday dinners is the time, effort and joy my mother puts into the preparation of the meal. There are family favourites and new recipes that Mom often tests. But above all, the love that Mom puts into her cooking and serving is what makes this tradition so special. The cookbook evolved when Mom decided to write out all the Sunday dinner favourites. She hand wrote each recipe and then made copies for all her children and grandchildren.
We treasure the book but most of all we treasure the value of our Sunday dinners together. As time goes by, the tradition of making these recipes will continue for generations to come. I’m pretty sure that nothing more will warm my mother’s heart.” – Martha Thomson, June’s youngest daughter
“My sister’s cookbook is incredibly special – I have a copy and so do both of my daughters. Whenever I think of the cookbook I think of a very special moment a few years ago. It was my eldest daughter’s wedding. When my sister arrived my youngest grandson (who was 5 at the time and had grown up with June’s cookbook) ran across the room and gave her an enormous hug. Jackson’s face lit up and he squealed in excitement when he finally met “the lady on the book.” The cookbook is a staple in our all of our homes.” – Joan Yates, June’s younger sister
Works Cited
Daniels, Sarah et al. “More than Preparing a Meal? Concerning the Meanings of Home
Cooking.” Appetite, vol. 58, no. 3, 2012, pp. 1050–1056.,
doi:10.1016/j.appet.2012.02.040